Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Persian Bean and Noodle Soup - Ash-e Reshteh


For pure pleasure in the realm of comfort foods, few cuisines rival Persian for supremacy.  They have the depth, flavor and the types of ingredients that instantly qualify them as "soul foods".  In my definition, "soul foods" genuinely have the ability to bring people back to times and places that they identify with a slight odor, a texture, a flavor.  In my case the slightest odor of homemade teriyaki brings me immediately back to nights when my Mother would cook chicken with peaches.  This is a dish that immediately brings me back....and not in a good way!  I have discovered that as an adult, I can avoid eating dishes such as this.

According to my Persian friends and many cooking references, food is as central to ethnic Persians as it is to any culture in the world, with specific dishes for each different ethnic group, sect, season and occasion.  Like many of the cuisines that were formed out of poverty, but shaped by a strong imperial court, there are many levels of complexity that can be found, from simple vegetarian stews to entire chickens stuffed inside of a lamb meat encasement.

The story behind this deceptively simple bean and noodle stew has a strong religious and deep ancient cultural connection.  Apparently, prior even to the rise of Islam, this soup was eaten on the first day of every month, a tradition that continues to this day.  It is also a soup cooked prior to the departure of a family member for the hajj, as the noodles signify the difficult path ahead.

This is certainly a meal filling enough to work prior to setting out on a journey, and will make enough for 5-6 people if served with light accompaniments.

Recipe : Persian Bean and Noodle Soup - Ash-e Reshteh

1 can each of Kidney Beans, White beans and Garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/3 cup each Mung Beans and  Large Lentils, picked over and rinsed
1 onion, chopped
1 large leak, washed and chopped
1 bunch Cilantro, washed and chopped
2 large handfuls of baby spinach, washed and coarsely chopped
1 lemon
large pinch of dried or fresh Dill and Oregano
1 cup of dried Persian Noodles if using the "reshteh-ye ash", or use recipe below for fresh pasta
Large pinch of Tumeric
salt and pepper
Kashk if available or sour cream

Saute onion over medium heat with oil until it is lightly browned.  Add tumeric, salt and pepper.  Saute for a few minutes, then add 7 cups of water, juice from the lemon, all of the beans, the lentils and the dried spices.  Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, cover and cook for 1 hour.  Add cilantro and spinach, cover and cook for 15 minutes.  Add pasta and kashk or sour cream.  Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, and thin with additional water if desired. Serve topped with additional kashk or sour cream.

Recipe: Fresh Persian Pasta - Reshteh

1 cup of AP flour
pinch of salt
enough water to make a smooth dough

Mix flour, water and salt until dough is formed.  Rest for at least 20 minutes.  Roll as thinly as possible, flour generously, roll and cut into noodles.  Toss with flour and allow to slightly dry.

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